Hood introduces this as - to paraphrase - a taste of the American South. I've never been there. But if this is truly representative, I must say I'm not opposed to visiting.

The first thing I noticed was BBQ sauce - or rather, the relative lack thereof. These days, when I see BBQ sauce on the spec sheet, the feeling I get is generally one of concern. In most cases BBQ sauce completely takes over all other flavors. Not the case here. This one was subtle and just enough was added to help with the balance, no more. The pancetta was perfect, in taste and in texture. The apple slaw added the much needed freshness.

The tomato was a bit of a miss, however. For some reason it clashed with this particular BBQ sauce. If they used a different sauce it probably would have worked better.

Also, the quality control (oversalted meat, mainly) was a bit all over the place the few times I ordered this burger. Sometimes just right, sometimes too much, once not enough. The score might be bumped up a bit if they fixed that. Take from that what you will.